Aberarth as a Port and Shipbuilding Village

Contributed by Henry Jones, Glenview, Aberarth.

It is probable that there was some maritime activity from its earliest days as a coastal settlement. Nothing would be more natural than for people to turn to the sea for part of their sustenance and also for links with other coastal villages. We know the sea was a route way for early invaders along the West Wales Coast; early Christian Saints travelled the sea and established churches at places like Llangrannog and Llanrhystud. It is more likely than not that some trade followed in the wake of their journeys.

During the twelfth century Cistercian monks arrived in West Wales. They founded an abbey at Tref Garn in Carmarthenshire in 1144. The order expanded through being granted lands by Welsh Princes and a gift by the Lord Rhys enabled them to establish the abbey at Strata Florida in 1164. Much of the stone used in the construction of the abbey was Bathstone, which was brought by sea from (probably) Bristol to Aberarth. It was then transported up the valley of the Arth and across the upland moorlands to Strata Florida.

Cistercians were renowned farmers and cultivated their extensive coastal lands in the Aberarth area to grow cereals; on the upland pastures they produced wool. Aberarth became the port from which surpluses of these products were exported. The monks also established an important fishery on the beaches North and South of the mouth of the Arth. They built and operated semi-circular stone traps known as GOREDI; the remains of which can still be seen and one was being worked in the 1930s. These activities at Aberarth would have been supervised from the monastic cell at Pennant, possibly on or near the site of the present Monachty mansion. It follows that Aberarth had a thriving port during the Middle Ages, playing an important role in the economy of Strata Florida.

Following the dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII in 1539 there is little evidence of maritime activity at Aberarth until the middle of the eighteenth century. A chart of the Cardiganshire coast dating from about this time shows Aberarth as being marked, in fact, it is the only coastal settlement between Llangrannog and Llanrhystud. No mention is made of Newquay or Aberaeron although both were destined to become important nineteenth century ports and shipbuilding centres. The fact that Aberarth does appear on the chart suggests that there was some maritime activity between the dissolution of Strata Florida and the very busy period from 1750 onwards.

It is probable that Aberarth played at least some part in the very important herring fishing industry of Cardigan Bay which flourished from the late 1500s until it petered out at the end of the nineteenth century. Fish were caught in large numbers and what was not consumed locally was exported, mainly to Ireland. Cardigan became the main port of export and since Cardigan as a port extended from Fishguard to Llandewi-Aberarth it is likely that fish caught in this part of the bay would have formed part of this trade. Some boat building was probably carried out to supply the needs of fishermen and possibly larger craft to take surplus catches to points of export like Cardigan and Aberporth.

As coastal trading increased greatly in volume and variety throughout the eighteenth century Aberarth became an important landing place for cargoes which supplied the agricultural hinterland. Lime and Culm (CWLWM) were the main imports. Limestone was burned in several kilns situated on the cliff top before being carted to inland farms and spread on the land or used to make mortar for building. Culm (anthracite dust) was mixed with clay and was the main fuel in most households. Other imports would be for building work (e.g. Slates and timber) and domestic use (pots, pans and earthenware goods). Increasing trade meant that traders and merchants saw the advantage of building, owning and operating their own vessels. Towards the end of the century, from the 1790s on, building these ships became an important industry.

Unfortunately, unlike other village industries, there is no trace of the shipbuilding that took place or of the importance of Aberarth as a port. One can still see the corn mill and the woollen mill building but the cart road that led to the beach is now a footpath with steps at the end of it. The lime kilns have long since vanished over the eroding cliff. The shipyard, which was probably to the North of the Arth, was washed away. Though there is no longer any visual evidence of shipbuilding there are fortunately some written records from about 1800. Valuable work has been done researching maritime activity in Ceredigion, notably by J.Geraint Jenkins of Llangrannog in "Maritime Heritage". In this book the author lists the ships built at Aberarth.

Some points of interest which arise from this list:

1. Until 1835 all vessels recorded are 'smacks' or 'sloops' - the descriptions are really interchangeable and it is quite usual to find the same vessel appearing in the register described as a smack and at another time described as a sloop. Usually larger vessels would be registered as 'sloops'. These small craft engaged exclusively in coastal trade between spring and autumn since no insurer would insure them for winter work. Trading was mainly with Pembrokeshire and Carmarthenshire ports in lime and culm cargoes and with North Wales ports for slate and crockery. (It has to be remembered that before the railways came, South West Wales was isolated from the rest of Wales (and England) by the Cambrian Mountains. Pack horses were the main means of inland transport.)

Smacks/Sloops were round hulled craft to facilitate unloading on the open beach, the cargoes being discharged into carts. Unloading began as soon as a cart could be brought alongside the vessel and had to be completed before the tide refloated her, so horses carts and labour had to be available quickly. An elderly resident, Mrs Evans, Llwynderw, recalls being told as a child that her great grandmother 'ran' a smack, the Eleanor. As her eyesight deteriorated she would take her daughters to the cliff top to see if they could detect the smack's approach. If it was in sight the girls would be sent off post-haste to summon carts from the farms. Cargoes from vessels like these would have been landed until the 1870s or 80s.

2)The period 1835-46 sees the development of building schooners which were larger and faster vessels designed to trade beyond coastal waters. They were ocean going ships which engaged in the North Atlantic trade, sailed to the Mediterranean, the Baltic and South America. Because it was much easier to load and discharge schooners at purpose built harbours they were operated locally, mainly from Aberaeron - by now growing in importance - New Quay, Cardigan and Aberystwyth. Ships of this nature required more specialised building and for the first time the names of individual builders are recorded in the registers. Most prominent among the Aberarth builders was Evan Jones.

In 1846 Aberarth suffered a catastrophic flood which washed away the road bridge, part of Water Street and the chapel; the shipyard at the mouth of the river was destroyed. Evan Jones schooner the Adroit was on the stocks at the time and was swept out to sea. He managed to recover her and he completed her at Aberaeron having moved his yard to the growing port, where he and his nephew David Jones, who was apprenticed to him, became two of the principal builders. Between 1847 and 1883 they built over thirty ships, mostly schooners but also brigantines of up to 200 tons. After 1846 only two smacks are recorded as having been built at Aberarth. Considering the present village it seems quite astonishing that such an industry ever existed here; that in little over 50 years at least thirty five commercial vessels were recorded as having been built at Aberarth and that for the best of a hundred years it was a thriving port.

More Detailed information about a few vessels

"Robust" sloop 27 tons built in 1797.

Measured 37' 7" stem to stern, 13' 10' beam.

Registered at Aberystwyth in March 1832, previously registered at Cardigan.

Owner and master was J. Simon of Borth.

The Robust was wrecked between Strumble Head and St Davids in October 1854.

"Ontario" 1831, builder Evan Phillips.

53 tons, 48' 102 stem to stern, 17' 2" bean.

Registered at Aberystwyth in 1831.

Owners listed as

David Phillips shares are recorder as being sold to Daniel Jones, February 1836

This is a fairly typical example of a coastal trading vessel's ownership. It is easy to see interests of the community reflected in the distribution of shares. Mariners were usually substantial share owners. Farmers, too, had a vested interest in vessels which carried Culm and Limestone. Merchants and suppliers were obviously involved, as were those who carried out specialised related work - sailmakers, ropemakers, blacksmiths, blockmakers, etc..

Smacks/sloops usually had a crew of two men and a boy. A smack/sloop of 30 tons could carry a cargo of about 50 - 60 tons.

"Ceylon" Registered Aberystwyth July 7 1841.

Builder Evan Jones.

79 ton schooner, 59' stem to stern, 17' beam.

Female bust figurehead.

Among owners listed:

Points of interest here are:

The refinement of a figurehead which was typical of schooners from the late 1830s. Reflects pride of owners and builders in vessels which sailed to distant places.

The master's house has the same name as the ship. Several houses in the are have ship's names.

John Phillips, Lanlas, was a prominent shareholder in Aberarth vessels in the 1840s. He also held the lease of the water mill and built the woolen factory.

John Jones belonged to a family of blacksmiths, known in Aberaeron as "Y Gofiad", who were important in shipbuilding in Aberaeron.

The Ceylon became Aberystwyth owned in the 1860s. She was lengthened at Aberystwyth in 1861 and abandoned at sea on March 8 1867. Her working life of 25 years or so was below the average, although many ships lasted far less in what was always a hazardous business.

The fates of some Aberarth vessels:

Not all vessels perished, the Ellendale built at Aberarth 1851 had finally to be scrapped in 1933. A tribute indeed to the quality of the building.

And here is a picture of a model of the Ontario made by Huw Evans